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A contentious export: The anatomy of Canada’s horsemeat industry

A contentious export: The anatomy of Canada’s horsemeat industry

Confined in wood crates, 99 horses had been loaded into an airplane’s cargo maintain on the Edmonton Worldwide Airport final month.

Like hundreds of others earlier than them, the animals had been sure for Japan the place their meat, served uncooked, is taken into account a delicacy.

Horse welfare advocates are hoping the cargo might be one of many final.

“When horses for slaughter are shipped, they’re crammed into these crates,” stated Sinikka Crosland, president of the Canadian Horse Defence Coalition.

“It’s a horrific journey.”

Stay exports are banned in the USA and Britain, and horse advocates who condemn the slaughter have lengthy known as on Canada to observe go well with. As Ottawa mulls a proposed a ban on reside exports for slaughter, horse activists and trade advocates are clashing over whether or not a ban is justified and the potential penalties. 

Canada is among the many main exporters of horsemeat on the earth. 1000’s of horses — raised solely for slaughter — are shipped in another country every year. It’s a profitable however controversial multimillion-dollar enterprise that’s now dealing with an unsure future.

Prime Minister Justin Trudeau, in a December 2021 mandate letter to Agriculture Minister Marie-Claude Bibeau, vowed to finish exports of reside horses for slaughter. 

The Prime Minister’s Workplace is supporting a non-public member’s invoice tabled by Liberal MP Tim Louis in September calling on the federal government to make good on that promise. Lawrence MacAulay, who took over from Bibeau as Canada’s agriculture minister this summer time, has stated he takes the difficulty, and animal welfare, severely.

The invoice requires a prohibition on the export of horses for slaughter, with fines of as much as $250,000 or a two-year jail time period for folks discovered responsible of taking part within the commerce.

Home slaughter can be untouched by the proposed laws. 

The meals chain

Horsemeat, described as gentle and candy, is taken into account taboo to many North American palates however it’s no stranger to Canadian kitchens.

Particularly widespread in Quebec, the meat is stocked in grocery shops and butcher retailers and might be discovered on the menus of high-end eating places throughout the nation. 

The overwhelming majority of client demand, nonetheless, might be discovered abroad with reside exports accounting for the majority of the Canadian trade.

Horses might be bought into meat manufacturing and slaughtered for the home market.

Animals destined for reside export, nonetheless, are purpose-bred and start their lives on sprawling feedlots.

There are two remaining slaughter crops in Canada — Viande Richelieu in Massueville, Que., and Bouvry Exports Ltd., in southern Alberta. Bouvry operates the most important horse slaughter plant within the nation. It’s surrounded by feedlots for the horses that serve its provide chain. The corporate declined to take part in an interview with CBC.

By the numbers

Greater than 85 per cent of Canada’s horsemeat is exported. Based on the Canadian Meat Council, main markets embrace Japan, Switzerland, France, Belgium and Kazakhstan.

Horses are shipped by air from Calgary, Edmonton and Winnipeg to Japan the place they will fetch as much as $9,000 every.

Based on Statistics Canada, about 2,600 Canadian horses had been exported for slaughter in 2022.

All went to Japan, at a complete worth of $19 million.

Knowledge collected by Agriculture and Agri-Meals Canada reveals that between January and March of this yr, 899 horses had been shipped in another country.

The Canadian Meals Inspection Company (CFIA) says 45,000 horses destined for slaughter had been shipped overseas between 2013 and 2023.

The journey

The journey for horses destined for slaughter begins on the feedlot. 

Principally Clydesdales and Percherons, horses are loaded onto vehicles and delivered to the airport tarmac the place they examined for indicators of illness. The animals chosen for transport are loaded into wood crates and packed into the aircraft’s cargo maintain.

After they arrive in Japan, the horses are fattened for not less than three months earlier than they’re slaughtered. Their meat, served raw, is coveted by customers who pay upwards of $45 per kilogram for the delicacy.

Known as basashi, it has earned the nickname “cherry blossom meat” for its distinctive flavour and texture.

Horses in crates are loaded onto a cargo plane in Winnipeg, bound for Japan.
Horses in crates are loaded onto a cargo aircraft in Winnipeg, sure for Japan. (Supplied/Jennifer Woods)

Canadian meals export laws dictate that the animals in transit ought to spend not more than 28 hours with out meals, water or relaxation. Previous to February 2020, the utmost transport time was 36 hours. 

The CFIA says it displays the shipments carefully and that strict well being checks make sure the welfare of the animals aboard every flight.

Horses spend, on common, 20 to 22 hours in transit, in accordance with the CFIA. 5 deaths in transit have been reported to the company over the previous decade. The mortality price in any respect levels of transport is 0.011 per cent, the company stated.

Welfare fears

Animal welfare advocates filed a authorized grievance with the federal authorities after a December 2022 cargo of reside horses from Winnipeg to Japan exceeded the 28-hour restrict.

The grievance, and a petition promoted by Canadian singer-songwriter Jann Arden, have helped throw requires a ban again into the highlight.

Crosland, president of the non-profit advocacy group Canadian Horse Defence Coalition, stated the situations in transit are merciless. Horses are susceptible to panic and don’t cope properly with confinement, she stated.

The coalition is in search of an outright ban on the horse slaughter however considers reside exports notably problematic.

The group has been monitoring the transports for years, gathering data and capturing video footage of the shipments. 

Too typically, laws are damaged and closing dates on transports exceeded, Crosland stated.

“Usually, they’re sitting on the tarmac for hours,” she stated. “They don’t have any meals, water or relaxation.”

Laws beneath scrutiny

Trade advocates say the sector is a vital a part of Canada’s livestock financial system, one which has been unfairly maligned by activists. 

Jennifer Woods, a Calgary-based livestock dealing with professional who conducts animal welfare audits for the transport trade, stated exports are strictly regulated and situations are humane.

Japan doesn’t settle for reside horse exports from any nation aside from Canada. The Japanese market is especially obsessive about high quality, Woods stated.

“There are such a lot of checks and balances,” she stated.

“It actually comes all the way down to the tip use of the animal. And the tip use of an animal mustn’t outline what their welfare is throughout their life.”

Greater than 45 requirements regulating the density of transport, size of transport and total animal well being are enforced, Woods stated.

For instance, loading density laws enforced by the Worldwide Air Transport Affiliation require that horses weighing round 725 kilograms be given 1.7 sq. metres of area when transported in crates that maintain three animals.

When they’re shipped to Japan, horses are supplied with greater than two sq. m of area when loaded three to a crate, she stated.  

Woods stated hundreds of animals exported from the nation yearly beneath related situations. 

“We export pigs, we export cattle, and we export all of them beneath the identical laws and necessities so I simply actually battle with the concept that air transport is barely inhumane when it’s export horses sure for Japan’s meat market,” Woods stated. 

“We don’t all should agree on whether or not horses ought to be consumed for meat. No one has to agree on that. However we should always agree that laws and payments are literally based mostly on details.” 

Draft horses of various colours stand in a line. They stand on a bed of straw.
Horses awaiting slaughter stand in a feedlot. The Canadian Horse Defence Coalition describes the situations for the animals shipped abroad as merciless and inhumane. (The Canadian Horse Defence Coalition)

Invoice DesBarres, chair of the Horse Welfare Alliance of Canada, opposes a ban on reside exports.

He stated the horsemeat trade isn’t any totally different than some other facet of the livestock trade, and the sector is being unfairly villainized. 

DesBarres spent a long time breeding Appaloosas close to Drugs Hat, Alta. When his operation was nonetheless lively, he bought a handful of outdated horses every year for home slaughter. He stated he enjoys consuming a wide range of meat, together with horse. 

He stated the home market offers a humane and helpful end-of-life possibility for animals that outdated or sick.

We elevate livestock to offer a supply of protein to people who need to eat it.– Invoice DesBarres

“I respect many individuals who would fairly not eat any meat,” he stated. “That’s fantastic. That’s their privilege and their prerogative.

“However we elevate livestock to offer a supply of protein to people who need to eat it.”

DesBarres stated it’s irritating to see politics pose a risk to suppliers and breeders throughout the nation. “Lots of people concern for his or her enterprise and their livelihoods,” he stated.

A query of tradition?

Dylan Gordon, a Halifax-based anthropologist and meals tradition researcher, stated the proposed ban raises vital questions across the politics of meals and which animals are thought of of worth.

When folks view animals as companions, the concept of consuming them turns into morally abhorrent, he stated.

Gordon cautioned, nonetheless, that the present debate over the Japanese market’s urge for food for uncooked horsemeat echoes historic, xenophobic beliefs whereas neglecting different problematic practices inside Canada’s meat trade.

He stated it’s vital that Canadians suppose critically about their very own meals decisions.

“Don’t demonize different folks for not consuming the identical approach you do, as a result of there’s loads of points in our personal yard.”

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